Problem Cause/Solution The rear heater, leveling jacks. Battery isolators use silicon diodes to split a one-way flow of current that charges both batteries evenly so that accessory batteries cannot drain power from the main starting battery. If it has a large finned heatsink it is wasting power, plain and simple. The Solenoid Is Not A Substitute For A Sure Power Battery Isolator The Solution To eliminate the multi-battery drain problem, a Sure Power Isolator acts as a check valve between the batteries, preventing current from owing from one battery to another. My AUX battery is isolated with a simple relay. For the first point, get the highest CCA battery you can fit. All the power comes from your 2nd battery. If, while the ignition is on, the voltage falls below 12. you should see 0v (or 14v if you use a common ground for the meter) if you see 0v and still have low voltage look at the ground cables,they should go to a common spot like the motor or both batterys neg to neg. It doesn't care if the battery is physically there or grounded - it just closes the circuit that lets 10A 13v reach the end of the wire. My solenoid (Big Boy Battery Isolator Relay P/N 77-90006-120) is good, Coil has a constant 12vdc going to it, However the ground which excites the coil is not active.I am wanting to know the source of the ground that paths from the solenoid back to the PC board, The PC bord does have a small push switch for. I had the same problem with my HR and it was the solinoid that was bad. chaithanya smaran villa for rent honda accord 2002 specs microsoft natural keyboard teenage detective book series At the cost of greater complexity, go to one of the relay based systems. And a characteristic of a diode is that when the diode is forward biased, (conducting) there will be drop in output voltage compared to the input voltage, of around half a volt. Visit The best way to do this is to find the "accessory" wire in your fuse box and tap into that wire. you would have a solenoid that passes the voltage IF you have an interior switch. The set up is like this Positive wire hooked up from starter battery > switch->isolator->home batteries-> etc. Change your red lead to the top isolator post going to the engine battery. If the isolator is for that circuit, then the 60A is more than adequate if it's the stock setup. It closes the connection any time the house battery voltage exceeds some threshold value, about 13.3v as I recall. If the wiring looks good and the isolator is sending power, you need to look elsewhere for the battery charging problem. The isolator allows for current to flow one way where the separator will allow it to flow both ways. Both are readily available, but the BCI24 will be more common.) Keep in mind during this step that you have to disconnect the negative cable before you attach the positive terminal to anything so that you do not get shocked. Does not create a voltage drop to the second battery like conventional isolators.
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